Skaergaard: Travel, Iceland to Greenland

We left for Greenland on a chilly and blustery, gray summer morning, rather typical North Atlantic summer weather. There were no substantial storms in the area, so the trip was relatively smooth. On the second day, however a number of us were quite seasick, and we discussed our personal remedies in the common room. A British scientist said that he just put up with it as best he could. He said his motto was to “muddle through and keep a stiff upper lip.” I looked at him, and said that I took sea sickness pills, and that as an American, my motto was “better living through chemistry.” Strangely enough, it was the Canadians who though that was funny, which is probably the funniest part.

Keflavík Harbor, showing the Grigoriy Mikheev. This vessel has a crew of 21, and is 66 m long, 12.5 m wide, with a draft of 4 m. It has a cruising speed of 14 kts, and a cruising range of 70 days. It can hold up to about 40 passengers.

Closer view of the Grigoriy Mikheev. My cabin was the second porthole from the left, in the lower row of portholes on the flat side of the passenger quarters.

The Keflavík Harbor quay, photographed as the Grigoriy Mikheev got underway.

The port tugboat Auðunn, that followed the ship to open water. There were two harbor pilots aboard our ship, which transferred back to the tug when we were out of the harbor.

Looking back, southeast, from the bay toward Reykjanes, outbound to Greenland.

Morning life jacket and lifeboat drill. All put on large life jackets and got into our appointed life boats. The life boats are entirely steel, and the inside has an engine, a fuel tank, a radio, and some tinned provisions. Not very comfy but no doubt better than drowning in the North Atlantic.

View of the distant Greenland shore. Mountains along the shore rise up to 1000 m, mountains beyond up to 2000 m. The white containers along the ship’s side contain quick-release life rafts.

View from above the bridge onto the mid deck, showing our wake and one of the Zodiacs. The green hatches cover the hold.

Looking NW over the bow toward the Skaergaard region. The impressive cliff and spire is unnamed, and is about 600 m high. The rounded summit immediately to its right is Pilespidsen (766 m).

One of the many chunks of ice that we encountered entering the Skaergaard area.

View northeast from the ship. These rocks are all part of a thick Tertiary basalt sequence. The glacier on the left is Hammer Glacier.

Looking southeast across the entrance to Kangerlussuaq Bay.

Looking northeast as we entered Kangerlussuaq Bay, and approached Skaergaard.

Looking west across Kangerlussuaq Bay at the ice and mountains and setting sun.

Looking north into Skaergaard Bay. Steep glacier to the left is Hænge Glacier, and that just to the right of the foremast is Basis Glacier. Just left of the foremast is Skaergaard Bay.

Ice and Tinden peak. The roof contact of the Skaergaard is visible against Tertiary basalts, to the left of center. The brown rock visible above the left glacier and the brown patch just to the left of center is the Skaergaard, with darker and gray basalts above, dipping down to the right.